GM,
I read all your poker lessons which I thought were excellent. Unfortunately even at the 1$-2$ and 2$-4$ they seem to play very tight (except for A-anything which seemingly has beaten me more than winning w/A-10).

My question is, you mentioned in lesson 1 of poker that it took a bankroll of $8,000 to play $10-$20 poker and that you would later explain that reasoning. Did I miss the explanation?

thanks
Ron Cook

Hello, Ron.

Thanks for the compliment.

Yes, low-limit games are tight affairs and that will probably never change. Nor will clinging to Ace-anything.

My references to bankroll size will be more fully explained in the upcoming lessons on money management, so you haven't missed anything. The idea of having 400 "big" bets available as a bankroll is based upon a lot of good information, although it's fairly conservative for a player who is not making a living from the game, i.e., they have a means other than poker to replace any losses, like a job.

The future lessons will show you how to calculate a bankroll based upon your actual session results, so it's best to start keeping an accurate log of your play. I should mention that the 400 big bets bankroll assumes you're not playing tournaments. A tournament bankroll should be separate and apart from your "regular" bankroll and it needs to be at least 20 times the average tournament entry fee because the tendency is to end up "out of the money" so frequently in those events.

Again, I'm being very conservative with these numbers but until you're absolutely convinced you are playing a winning game (and not just profiting from variance, or "luck", as most people call it), conservative is the way to go.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
1/1/04

Greetings GM,

Thanks again for providing such an excellent site. I've been a loyal reader for about 2 years now and I have been applying your teachings with great success. I was recently reviewing a few of the archives when I came upon a tidbit at the end of the 4th installment of the "beating tough games" series. The last paragraph reads:

"But I do want to leave you with a teaser and I may, someday, reveal it in my "Secrets" column. The game on the Queen can produce some serious $$$, in spite of all the pitfalls I've described. I know, because I've done it."

I play at the Queen from time to time and have never been able to figure out any "tricks" to make the game more playable. Just wondering if you have ever disclosed your secret, or if you ever plan to?

I've been curious since I first read the article, but I understand if you do not want to share.

Thanks again for the great site, and happy holidays.

Hello, Mike.

Thanks for the compliments about our site. It's always good to hear that we've been able to help.

As for the situation on the "Queen", no, I haven't written about it yet, because it still works. I'm sure you can understand why I won't share that information, but I will promise to do so whenever the opportunity is no longer available. Just so you know, it's completely legal and does not involve any dealer collusion or anything like that.

The next time you're there, take a good, long look at the game; perhaps that will help.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
1/1/04

Enjoy your site a lot and I've followed your Hold 'Em columns carefully, clipping out the tables as you suggested. Under your tutelage, I've done okay (maybe better than okay) playing "play money" poker, tables and tournaments.

Question: how different is the real thing. In play money poker, you see idiots going all-in before the flop every hand (which makes the game "Battle"), crazy bets, obvious anger-driven bets, staying with 7-2o and much more.

Is this true for real money? Or does bad play bankruptcy weed out the bad players quickly?

Pete
P.S. Thanks for the good work and good writing!

Hello, Pete.

Thanks for the compliments. It's good to know we've been a help to you.

The games at the play-money tables are, as you say, very "loose", in that you might be called (or raised!) by darn near any hand at all. But those games have a definite value, because while most real-money games aren't nearly as wild, you'll still run across the occasional player who believes throwing $$$ at the pot is the key to winning. Of course, the wise player quickly takes advantage of the situation by just playing solid hands.

But for the most part, real-money games are a lot - a whole lot - tighter than what you're seeing now, undoubtedly due to the "bankruptcy factor" you mentioned. The important thing is to learn how to adapt to the type of game you find yourself in, so as to extract the maximum value for your time.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
11/28/03

GameMaster,

First I wanted to say that your site is Fantastic! By following your instructions I've managed to change my "luck" at the casinos... I can now count through a deck in 10-11 seconds.

That's great! Continued success.

However, my studies have brought up a few questions:

1. Why is an eight deck game less favorable to the player? (is it because there are more aces in the shoe?)

No, it's primarily because you'll get fewer "blackjacks", in spite of the fact that there are more Aces available. In a single-deck game, you'll get an untied "natural", as I call it, 4.6492% of the time. In a 6-deck game it's reduced to 4.5323%. That may not seem like a lot, but with the 3 to 2 pay for a natural, the difference adds up.

2. Is it ill-advised to use a comp card? also, when you do use one at the casino, can they actually track your betting spread? if so, is this a big deal? (we have to control our betting to avoid attention anyway, so why would it matter if the computer had it?)

I use one myself and it's as you say; we're trying to look like gamblers anyway, so what's the problem? Plus, the "pit critters" are spending more time trying to calculate your average bet, not the spread you're using, unless they specifically suspect you're a counter.

3. How long do you think it will be before all casinos have continuous shuffling machines?

It'll never happen. They're expensive to lease and the non-counting public hates them, as do most dealers.

4. As a white, college student, am I on the suspected list already, or do the pit critters think of me as just another "frat boy"

It all depends upon your "act". If you're cocky like so many other frat boys, they'll pick up on you eventually. However, if you're pleasant, tip the cocktail servers and act as though anyone employed by the casino has attained some sort of god-like image in your view, all should go well. Just keep in mind that you're there for the $$$, not the ego trip.

5. On that note, I was also wondering if you had any additional camoflage tips... I've been trying the "hidden in plain view" concept by being a "vocal" gambler. (I figure the casinos think that counters don't want to be noticed, so who in their right mind would be loud if they were counting cards??)

That works, as does anything else that makes you look like the "average gambler". For a lot of good tips, invest in the book "Burning The Tables in Las Vegas" by Ian Andersen. While it's directed mainly at the $100 and up bettor, there's still a lot of good info in there. The important thing is that your "act" should be a pretty good reflection of who you really are. If you're the talkative type (as I am), then talk. For me to clam up at a table is all but impossible, so at least I look natural as I'm doing it.

Just make sure you're not moving you lips as you count - it's something new counters will do, but they don't realize it. Have a friend watch you from across the pit for 15 or 20 minutes sometime to see if they notice any "tells" you may have.

6. If I'm drinking at the table, and acting drunk, am I able to fluctuate my bets more? possibly if I keep moving tables? (when you hit a true count of 9 when there's only two decks left, it's frustrating to bet only $60)

Be careful with the "drunk" act; it's definitely overused. The $60 bet you're making is what's right for a $3000 bankroll and your top bet should always be calculated upon your BR, not by what you feel you can get away with. However, if your BR is bigger and you get a count like that, put out the appropriate bet, "drunk" or sober. The reaction the dealer and/or pit has to your bet will give you a good idea on where you stand in your act as a "gamblin' fool". Changing tables frequently is always a good idea, especially if you're moving when the count goes to -1 or lower.

Thanks again for your help, keep up the good work!
Sincerely,
"The Protege"

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
11/15/03

Dear GameMaster,

First of all, I want to tell you that your blackjack school is fantastic.

Mostly thanks to it I've become a professional blackjack player in the last year ( I think a monthly income of $2,000 is enough to say that I'm a pro). But things in Europe, where I live, have become very difficult (or impossible) for us counters since CSMs reign everywhere. And being so worried since I was looking for another job, I see your new poker school. GOD BLESS YOU! I've found my new job! And I won't have to hide from pit citters anymore! I have no doubts that your school will be fantastic once again and I wil learn a lot from it, but I'm a little bit in a hurry and since the whole lessons will take you some time till the end, I would like to learn faster since now I have plenty of time. So, could you tell me what are the best books and websites I need to read in order to learn how to play poker as easily and well as you teach in your school? I'm looking forward to your reply. Thanks.

Hello.

It's really great to hear that my lessons have helped you got to the "pro" level of play. Yes, $2000 per month from playing Blackjack qualifies you as a pro.

Anyway, I'm glad you found our new poker school and I can tell you that the opportunities, especially at online poker rooms are considerable at the moment. But like you said, it's going to take a while to get all of the lessons published - my goal is a new one each week - so a book will be very helpful, indeed.

Assuming that you're going to start "small", the best recommendation I can make at this time (I'm reviewing a bunch of poker books as we speak), is "Winning Low Limit Hold' em" by Lee Jones in the 2nd edition. I paid $25 for my copy and have already earned 5 or 6 times that amount from what it taught me.

Good luck in your new "career" and let me know how it goes.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
8/10/03

GM,
Is it concievable for me to think that I can play blackjack for a living?

Hello.

Yes, it's possible but difficult. First of all, you need to live close to a lot of casinos, which probably means Las Vegas, Reno, Tunica or Biloxi, etc. and you'll need a very large bankroll; probably $30,000 - $50,000 depending upon the games you play. Under the right conditions, you could make $30,000 to 50,000 per year with reasonable consistency on a yearly basis, although many months you'll find that you've lost so you also need a good amount of financial reserves over and above your playing bankroll.

In actuality, playing Blackjack is a much better part-time "job" to supplement your income. For example, I play Blackjack but I also play video poker, regular table poker, play in tournaments and run my web site, so if I'm having a bad month at one of them, the others will offset it. Plus, the diversification keeps things interesting; playing Blackjack all the time is very boring.

My advice is to keep your day job and develop your skills. You will know when you're ready to be a full-time "advantage" player.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
8/8/03

Dear GameMaster,

I am a beginner at most forms of gambling. I've bought my share of lottery and instant tickets and after being both dissapointed and disgusted with the results and odds I have decided to try games with hopefully a little better odds. I've read several books on blackjack[ not my cup of tea]. roulette [ I like the game but I haven't found a strategy that gives me at least a fighting chance [ several people on the forums I've joined tell me online games are all crooked and from what little experience I have I'm inclined to agree]. horse racing strategies seem exceedingly complicated or I can't find the info I need, etc.

How about playing the Dutch Uncle and making a few suggestions? Like what games and strategies [after some study and effort but hopefully not years of practise and experience] will offer a reasonable chance of small but at least semiregular income and perhaps the occasional shot at the big prize?

I'd appreciate any insights you may wish to give.

Hello, Lee.

Unfortunately, if making a "small but at least semiregular income" from the casinos were easy, there wouldn't be any casinos in the first place. However, there are several ways to play with an advantage at least when it comes to Blackjack, Video Poker and "table" poker like Hold'em, 7-card stud, etc. You mention that Blackjack isn't your "cup of tea", but it comes closest to providing you with what you'd like to get out of the casinos. If you will learn and follow the perfect Basic Strategy for the game of your choice (I assume you live near some brick-and-mortar casinos) and utilize the very simple Ace-5 count, which is described in my article, "I Am Not a Blackjack Fanatic" that is in the archives on the Blackjack page of my site, then you should be able to get a small overall edge in a typical Blackjack game with decent rules and penetration. This means you have good days and bad days, but in the long run, you'll break about even and if you can get the casino to comp you for dinners, etc., a decent "profit"can be realized. The same is true for Video Poker, if there are some decent games available, namely those with a 100+% long-term return when you figure in slot club cash back and comps, but VP require a much larger bankroll.

You appear to be skeptical of online casinos and, while a healthy dose of skepticism is warranted, there are many reputable Internet casinos and they offer good opportunities for profit through their sign-up and "player loyalty" bonuses, not to mention tournaments, contests and so on. My advice here is to take a look at my "Recommended List" of Internet casinos and consider becoming an established customer at one or two of them so that you can take advantage of what they offer. Again, playing "perfect" Blackjack at one of these casinos can reduce the house edge to a minimum, which will give you the opportunity to have some nice winning sessions, especially if they give you some sort of regular bonus or cash rebate.

I don't know if poker is your game or not, but it's a relatively new and very exciting area of Internet gambling that has tons of profitable opportunities such as sign-up bonuses, no- or low-cost tournaments and so forth. We just started a new poker section on our site, so check that out for some ideas.

The opportunities for making $$$ at casinos - "real" and Internet-based are as good today as they have ever been, but unfortunately, there is no single piece of advice I can give you that's going to produce a consistent income. Winning at casino games isn't easy, but it is possible if you've got the time, $$$ and most of all, the desire to make it happen.

That's the best advice your old Dutch Uncle has for you today.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
8/2/03

Dear GameMaster,

Few weeks ago, I went to Reno. Playing single deck, 1-4 (Greens). On the last day, I went down 2 grand in the morning. Spend the rest of the day making it back. Still down 100.

I much prefer playing heads up, but will sometime play if there's another player at the table. But from this experience and also past experiences, I generally lose when there's another player at the table. Of the 6 session I played by myself, I won all of them. Of the 6 session I played with another player, I lost 5.

I think this is mostly due to my inability to spread when there's another player. I only parlay my bets, going to 2 units first then 4 units when count 3 or above. When another player is at the table, the rounds get cut down to 4. This really hinders my ability to ramp up my bet. I also tried going to two hands, but I seem to lose every time I tried that. That's probably just bad fluctuation.

Also, from what I read on the news room, some people have similar experiences, where they do badly if there's more players at the table.

I was wondering how's your experience when playing with another player atthe table? Is it worth it to play with another player at the table, or should I just wait until there's one open? Of course, as soon as you sit down, someone else comes to join you. From your BJ school, it seems playing with another player could be beneficial. Since he could help to eat up the bad cards, and you could spread to eat up the good cards.

What do you think of the following bet schedule when there's another guyat the table? for a 300 unit bankroll. single deck. Reno.
TC
----------------------------------------------
0 1 unit ( 1 hand) 1 2 units (1 hand) 2 2 units (2 hands) 2 units per hand 3 or higher 3 units (2 hands) 3 units per hand

Since I'm betting more, as my top bet (6 units), is my bankroll sufficient? I know there's some interdependence between the two hands, so it's probably more like betting 5 units on one hand.

Hi.
I have no doubt that playing with others can affect your win rate and in a perfect world, all of us counters would have a table to ourselves whenever we wanted it. But, as you pointed out, that's not what really happens, so we have to adapt accordingly. In my article, "The ' Rule of ' Rule", which is archived on the Blackjack page of my site, I ran a bunch of sims on SD games with varying numbers of players to see how the penetration is affected, thus the player's edge, so check that out for some ideas.

I also ran a quick sim of your bet schedule (SD, D10, H17) with one other player while getting 4 rounds before the shuffle and it works out very well: a 1.59% overall player's edge and a SCORE of 157.77. (If you're not familiar with SCORE, it's explained the aforementioned article). However, if you get just 3 rounds with one other player, the edge is only 1.03% and the SCORE drops to 64.09, which is barely acceptable.

Regarding your bankroll, 300 units is very close to the absolute minimum needed. In the 4 rounds to 2 players sim., the expectation for 100,000 hands of play is +$3452, while 1 standard deviation is $870. The risk of ruin you're working with is about 10%. The co-variance ("interdependence") dictates that 2 hands of 3 units in a D10, no DAS game has the same risk as one hand of just over 4 units and the risk of ruin calculation is based upon that.

I hope this helps.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
7/17/03

GameMaster,
I have been playing in a 6/8 deck game with DAS,DAC,DHS, & no surrender utilizing the Uston Advanced Plus/Minus System & converting to half decks. I continue to play for long periods of time with no count high(or low) enough to utilize play variations. Today was the low point. I played for 5 hrs. with not one variation.Obviously the betting level does not change either. Since I have been counting for quite a while I am confident the true counts are correct. While understanding the long term effects of counting is this an extreme deviation or what?

Thanks for your thoughts,
Mil

Hi, Mil.

You didn't mention just what kind of penetration you're getting, but I've run a lot of simulations on a lot of different game types, so we can get an idea of what should be happening vis a vis the count.

For example, in an 8-deck game with 75% pen (6 of 8 dealt), the True Count as measured by the Hi/Lo will be at 0 or lower a full 75% of the time and at 2 or more about only about 12% of the time. So my guess is that you're either playing a game with shallow penetration or it was just "one of those days", if you're sure the count you keep is accurate. Those stats are why I urge you to leave a table when the TC drops to -1 or lower.

Blackjack really is a game of patience.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
7/1/03

GM.

When is the best time to play??

Hello.

It all depends upon what type of game you're playing. For example, if you're at a single- or double-deck game where you're playing both positive and negative counts, then you'd prefer to play one-on-one with the dealer and that may mean you have to play late at night or during the day in the middle of the week. But, if you're "backcounting" (wonging) a shoe game, then you'll want to play when the casino's busier, say, on weekday nights or even weekends; it all depends upon your venue.

There is no time when the winning will be easier, just times when it'll be easier to play the way you want. I will say this: if the casino where you play is the type that "sweats" winners, it's difficult to hide your skills when it isn't very busy.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
6/16/03

Dear GameMaster,

I'm reading a blackjack book which has a very graphic explanation of the sosphistication of the equipment used to detect players' abilities as well as card counter detection. This is pretty scary stuff just from the point of personal privacy. I guess my question or concern lies in the area of, now that I have mastered counting must I also master detection or is the author overemphasizing the scenario? I guess my real question is, can I be successful after I am fluent in counting without being detected?

Thanks

Hello.

Even though I haven't read the book you're referring to, I do believe the author is overstating his case. I've been a counter since 1978 and have never been barred from playing, mainly because I know my craft very well; much better than any casino surveillance employee. Forget personal privacy when you walk into a casino, the rules and regulations are mostly in their favor in that regard, anyway.

Just re-read Lesson 12 of my Blackjack School and don't sweat the casinos' desire to toss you out. Personally, I like the "cat and mouse" aspect of this business: their rules, their cards, their dealers and I beat them.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
5/23/03

Dear GameMaster,

Just back from Las Vegas, and I won 3 days in a row! THANKS. The first day I doubled my money, 2nd day tripled my money, third doubled it again. I played almost perfect, only one small problem: I only got into each game with $100...even though I had a $1,500.bankroll. I guess I was too scared of losing.

Advice, please.

Hello, Tom.

As your confidence grows, so will your bets. There's no hurry; enjoy your win and keep practicing.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
5/23/03

Dear GameMaster,

Hi, I was just looking at your webpage, it says stand on 16 vs 10 at 0 or higher, but I have never heard that before; I have heard +2 or higher. Where did you get that info from? Your numbers look a lot different than my books.

Thanks,
~Jon

Hello, John.

My primary reference is "Professional Blackjack" by Stanford Wong, but as I say in my lessons, some of the variations I list are "risk averse" indices, so they may differ from what other authors, including Wong, have published. If your other books say to stand with 16 vs. 10 at a count of 2 or more, it sounds to me like they're using the strategy for a single-deck game where the dealer hits soft 17. My strategy is for a 6-deck game where the dealer stands on soft 17.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
5/23/03

Dear GameMaster,

I found your site, and am exploring the wealth of information offered. Quick question - can you employ strategies at online casinos, or do they shuffle after every hand? Do you have any online casinos that you recommend?

Thanks in advance-
Jon

Hello, Jon.

For a list of recommended casinos, please go to the "GameMaster's Secrets page of my site at www.gamemasteronline.com/ Regarding casinos where you can count the cards, on the same page you'll see an article, "Counting Cards at Internet Casinos" in the archives of that same page.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
5/23/03

Dear GameMaster,

Hello, I have a question that is very basic but need help. I am trying to explain to someone why the house has a higher probability of winning with blackjack than the player (all strategies aside and an average person just playing the game). I am having a hard time putting into words why the dealer has the advantage and perhaps you could help explain. Thanks

Sandy
Calgary AB

Hello, Sandy.

The casino has an edge because the dealer takes your bet if you bust, even though she may later bust her hand. Playing last is the dealer's only advantage.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
5/23/03

Dear GameMaster,

Hi, I think you have an incredible site and it has helped me tremendously. If you could please help me with a few things, it would be greatly appreciated.

My friends and I are putting together a team of three people so we can team play. We will mostly be playing double and six deck shoes. I find it very hard to get to a high positive count in a double or especially a six deck shoe. What positive count number in a double and six deck should be attained before signaling a friend over for betting? Also what kind of penetration would I expect to get and what should I look for and where?

Thank you so much for your help.
Jacob

Hello, Jacob.

The point at which you should "call-in" another player depends upon several factors, namely the casino's edge "off the top", which is dependent upon their rules, and the size of your team's bankroll. For example, if the casino's edge is 0.41% (6-deck, S17, DA2, DAS, no surrender), then you'll be about even at a true count of 1. At a TC of 2, you'll have an advantage of 0.59% and, since you should bet only about 75% of your edge, it means your bet should be no more than .75 x .59 = 0.44% of your total bankroll. So, if you have $10,000, the optimum bet would be $44, which I'd round down to $40. If your bankroll is only $5000 and you're playing $25 minimum tables, you have to wait until a true count of 3, which would give you an edge of 1.09%. Again, using the 75% formula, your bet should be .75 x 1.09 = 0.82 x $5000 = $41. You can see that the bigger your bankroll, the sooner you can call in the other player, but as a general rule you should wait until the true count is 2. If you wait until the count is higher, you can lower your risk but you then run into the problem you mentioned above: not getting many high counts.

That's where penetration comes in; the more cards that are dealt, the higher counts you'll see, on average. As to what to look for, in a double-deck game, you should be searching for a game where at least 60 cards of the total 104 are dealt out and in a 6-deck game, the penetration should be at least 75%. Just bear in mind that many casinos have what's called a "no mid-shoe entry" rule that precludes you calling in another player after the first hand of a new shoe has been dealt. That rule was instituted to stop the tactic you and your friends hope to use.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
5/23/03

Dear GameMaster,

I am curious about the dice game, barboute? barbouthe? have been told various ways of spelling ... none sounded totally correct to me.

I have done at least a dozen google searches for information, and found none. I did however stumble across this web site and decided to try my luck here. Perhaps you know a resource for the rules and a definitive history of the game.

Thank you in advance for taking your time to read my question!
Nancy in Ohio

Hello, Nancy.

The game you're referring to is called "Barbooth" or "Barbudi", depending upon the neighborhood you're in. It's played with two dice and in its original form, is a game which is even-money for all concerned; there is no built-in "house" advantage for either side so you'll likely never see it in a casino. Any number of people can play, although it's best to have at least 3 players and the rules are very simple. All of the participants take turns rolling the dice and the player with the highest total becomes the first "shooter". The person to the immediate right of the shooter becomes the "fader" and s/he makes a wager of any amount (within the limits of the "house" minimum and maximum, as agreed upon in advance). The shooter has the option of accepting that bet or any part of it, but if the shooter accepts only a part, others at the table may accept the balance. In addition, the other players may make side bets among themselves on either the shooter or the fader as they wish.

Once the bets have been made, the shooter rolls the dice and s/he wins if the roll is 3,3; 5,5; 6,6 or 6,5. If the shooter rolls 1,1; 1,2; 2,2 or 4,4 s/he loses. Any other roll is a non-decision, in which case the dice are passed to the fader. The fader then makes one roll under the same conditions: winning if it's a 3,3; 5,5, 6,6 or 6,5 and losing if it's a 1,1; 1,2; 2,2 or 4,4. Should the fader roll any other combination, it's a non-decision and the dice are passed back to the original shooter who gets to try again. The dice continue to alternate between the shooter and the fader until a decision is reached. If the shooter loses with a roll of 1,1; 2,2 or 4,4; or if the fader wins with a roll of 3,3; 5,5 or 6,6 then the fader becomes the new shooter and the process starts over again, with the person to the right of the new shooter becoming the new fader and so on. However, if the original shooter loses with a throw of 1,2 or if the original fader wins with a throw of 6,5 the dice do not move and the original shooter retains the dice for another round of play.

I hope this helps.

Yours for winning,
The GameMaster
5/14/03